Samburu National Reserve is a truly magical place and I loved absolutely everything about it – the friendly people that feel like family, the gorgeous dark skies and thousands of stars, as well as the animals – you feel like you’re in wonderland. Samburu Basecamp, as well as Saruni Samburu, were absolutely amazing and I highly recommend staying there while you’re visiting Kenya.
Table of Contents
1. Why You Should Visit Kenya
Kenya will make you feel wide awake. From the moment you land, there’s color, rhythm, dust, and movement—life, all around you. It’s where giraffes glide across golden plains, and elephants disappear into acacia forests just as the sun begins to dip. You’ll see landscapes fold into each other—savannah into mountain, desert into rainforest—with every region feeling like a new planet. The wildlife isn’t behind fences here. It’s everywhere. If you’ve followed my blog for a while, you might know that I do not support animals in cages of any kind – and I also do not support animal feeding, so animals come to you. What would happen to them if that hotel closes tomorrow, would they be able to fend for themselves easily? That’s why I really fell in love with Kenya and Samburu National Reserve – you see the animals in their natural habitat, just roaming around and maybe giving you the occasional glance. They are so, so beautiful, that even just watching an elephant drinking water can make you tear up.
But it’s not just the animals. Kenya pulls you in with its people – honestly the friendliest ones you will ever encounter. Their traditions, culture, clothes and the smiles on their faces will be imprinted on your heart for years to come. And when night falls? You’ll look up and remember how dark the sky used to be—before light pollution chased the stars away. Kenya gives that back to you.
2. When is the Best Time to Visit Samburu National Reserve
Samburu National Reserve has two dry seasons and two wet seasons. During the wet seasons (April-May and September-December), the trees, grass and bushesh are all lush, green and gorgeous. However, the weather is a bit tricky – you might get an epic sunset, but there’s huge chances of rains. It’s definitely harder moving around, but usually there are less tourists. During the dry seasons (January-March and June-August) the weather is a lot more stable and absolutely perfect for game drives, bush walks, bush dinners, and of course, night photography. Sometimes, however, the area of Samburu can go years without rain which makes it so much harder for the locals and for wildlife as well. Dry season can get so dry that even the people in Nairobi can sometimes get headaches! Thus, it’s very important that they try to stay hydrated as much as they can.
Don’t forget to check for a visa for Kenya if required for your nationality. It’s very important before your visit and you can use this external service to make your life much simpler.
A good idea to visit would be the very beginning of dry seasons (January and June) – there are still some green bushes and the rivers haven’t completely dried up yet, so you get the best of both worlds.
3. Where to Stay in Samburu, Kenya – Samburu Basecamp
There aren’t too many options on where to stay in Samburu National Reserve. However, Samburu Basecamp is absolutely worth every penny, here’s why:
The Amenities
I was really impressed with all the amenities that Samburu Basecamp offered. Taking into consideration you’re within the Kalama conservancy and within minutes driving from Samburu National Reserve, I didn’t expect to have absolutely everything I could ever need. Samburu Basecamp has 5 tents and 2 starbeds. The tents are the very definition of glamping – you have a shower, a toilet, nets everywhere and even shades you can put down so it doesn’t get too hot during the day (or cold at night). They even have laundry service which is fantastic if you plan on staying for 5-6 days. Their attention to detail is unmatched – on top of all toiletries you might need, they also provide you with some laundry detergent if you want to wash something yourself – something I haven’t seen in any other hotel and was indeed impressive. As not all water is good for drinking, you will have bottles of water all around your room – and a separate bottle just for brushing your teeth! Every time I came back to my tent after a couple of hours out, my room was tidied all up, all my water bottles were full and the outer shades of the tent were put up or down accordingly.
The starbeds are an amazing experience – and yes, I am saying experience, not just an overnight stay! They are situated on two floors – a closed bottom floor with a proper shower and toilet and an upper open floor with a canopy bed, a jacuzzi, and a table for you to just sit, talk and enjoy the stars. Honestly, I just left my two cameras shooting and went to bed – the night sky is so, so dark here (but more on that later). Again, here you have absolutely everything you might need. What I would personally recommend is that you book a stay in Samburu Basecamp – and book at least 1 night in the starbed as an extra. Trust me, you will not regret watching the Milky way all night.
The Location
When people hear “Kenya”, the first thing they think of is Masai Mara. And yes, Masai Mara is absolutely amazing – watching the Great Migration is an unforgettable experience. However, it’s really, REALLY crowded over there, so you will definitely not be able to enjoy nature at peace. Samburu National Reserve is a true hidden gem in Kenya – you have the “Samburu Special 5” where you can see animals found nowhere else in the world. In addition, there are far less tourists – so you will not need to fight 30 SUVs full of tourists to get to the perfect angle of seeing a lion. Both Samburu Basecamp and Saruni Samburu are within 15-20 minutes driving from Samburu National Reserve, so they’re very convenient for joining game drives. That said – even just moving between the two properties or driving around them, you will surely see some wildlife roaming around. Saruni Samburu even has a watering hole and a hideout which is perfect for spotting animals at sunset or sunrise.
The People
The Saruni Basecamp Group has an important internal policy – they strive for the people working there to be at least 50-60% locals. This is absolutely great – they show solid support for local communities and give them opportunities to learn, grow and develop new skills. They are the friendliest people I’ve ever met (and I’ve met A LOT of people in my visits to 35+ countries around the world), and they will surely make you feel at home. This really was one of the highlights of my trip – meeting and interacting with the locals. Mary, one of the housekeepers, had the biggest smile on her face every time I saw her – and she was a queen at making towel swans. Benson, the camp manager, is absolutely amazing and will tell you so many things about the starry sky above you. Dixson, the assistant camp manager was so friendly and made sure to accommodate my every request. Steve and Jackson were the best – always chatting with me through the meals and telling me interesting stories about the locals. Naai was an absolute doll – so shy and pretty – a perfect model for photos. When I had to leave Samburu National Reserve, I honestly teared up a bit, all of these people made me feel like I was part of their family, which is a pretty rare thing to happen.
The Food
The one thing I did not expect while visiting Kenya was Michelin-level cuisine. And yes, the chef – Edwin, is an incredibly skilled chef. As I cannot physically eat large meals, I always asked him to prepare half a portion of the main course, because I reeeally wanted to have space for dessert (and trust me – it was totally worth it). At Samburu Basecamp you will always have two options when it comes to meals – a vegetarian one and a meat one. I’ve tried both and to be honest, every single bite of everything I tasted was amazing. If you go on a morning game drive, you will have the option for picnic breakfast. As for dinner – you can have bush dinner, where the staff brings everything you need outside – including table, chairs, candles… So it’s just absolutely romantic – a dinner under the stars.
The Experiences
There are many different experiences that both Samburu Basecamp and Saruni Samburu offer. Here are a few examples:
- Bush Dinner – as I just mentioned, this is a really great way to experience the night sky. You can have a stargazing session with Benson or Ian while the chef prepares your dinner – and then eat under the Milky way.
- Bush Walk – you can’t see everything with by car. There are some things worth walking for! Cave drawings, specialized ant traps – explore with a local guide and a ranger by your side.
- Game Drive (Safari) – of course, one of the main reasons you came. To be honest, every drive here is a game drive – you spot animals all around, as Samburu Basecamp is located deep within the Kalama Conservancy and really close to the Samburu National Reserve.
- Night Game Drive – there are animals that are strictly nocturnal and it’s almost impossible to see them during even sunrise and sunset. Of course, the night game drives are much tougher for spotting, but it’s still worth trying.
- Stargazing session with Benson or Ian – a must-do during your stay at Samburu Basecamp! Benson can tell you all about the stars and constellations and his knowledge is truly impressive. Ian on the other hand is Samburu himself and knows all the curious legends – how the locals set up meetings “when the Milky way core is the highest”, how weddings must only happen when Orion is out and how animals cannot get pregnant if the Pleiades are visible.
- The Starbed Experience – as I mentioned before, the starbeds are an amazing way to experience the night sky at Samburu Basecamp. Even if you are completely alone, this can still be one of the most romantic evenings you’ve ever experienced ✨
- Visiting the Local Village – this is the tour where you will see how the locals live – their clothes, their homes, customs, and of course – their animals. Don’t worry, they are very friendly, but do remember to bring them a gift (you can ask your local guide in advance what would be most appropriate).
- Reteti Elephant Sanctuary Excursions – Unfortunately I couldn’t manage to visit this place (but I will definitely see it on my next visit!). As Wilson, my guide, told me, it’s not a rare occurrence that a baby elephant gets trapped (in a hole, for example) or gets left behind by its parents. This is why this sanctuary exists – the local people save the baby elephants and take care of them until they are old enough to survive easily on their own – then they are released. You can even “adopt” a baby elephant and send some money for it on a monthly basis, which I think is an adorable way to support the sanctuary.
The Internet Connection
Never in my life have I thought that I would be recommending a property because of their… internet connection. But YES, the internet at Samburu Basecamp is the best. They use a Starlink connection – I even had a live video interview on national TV while I was there and there were no issues whatsoever. You will have connection in your tent, but you will not at the common areas – this is to prevent disturbances for other guests and to get you to enjoy your meal and chatting with your companions.
4. Samburu National Reserve and the Dark Sky
The night sky as you’ve never seen it before.
I’ll admit it – THIS was the main highlight of my visit to Kenya and Samburu National Reserve – the dark sky. There is a scale of how dark a sky is – mostly it takes into consideration light pollution – from cities, airports, etc. The area around Samburu is classified as “Bortle 1” – the darkest possible on the Bortle scale! And yes, you can see the Milky way with your own eyes and easily spot where the core is. Of course it won’t look as good as if you take a photo with your camera – the camera is able to capture a lot more light for 15-20 seconds than your eye, but it is still mesmerizing to even see it. Nowadays so many of us live in cities that we forget what the night skies above us hide. The hundreds if not thousands of stars you will be able to see will make you feel small, but also part of the vast cosmos. It will make you humble and proud at the same time. (If you want to learn even more details – check out my interview for Saruni Samburu).
Why is Samburu worth visiting for astrophotography?
The best of both worlds
As you are near the Equator, here you can see both Northern and Southern constellations and nebulae, which is truly amazing. I visited in June, which is perfect for the Milky way core, Carina Nebula, Running Chicken Nebula, Cygnus and North America Nebula – all really great objects to photograph. In January on the other hand you can see the gorgeous and huge Gum nebula and even the Large and Small Magellanic clouds – all 3 usually only seen from places like South America, Australia or New Zealand. Kenya is much nearer and a perfect place to photograph these objects in the night sky.
The double Milky way arch
In June and July if you are around or a bit below the Equator, you can capture a really great double Milky way arch. The arch starts out in the South at the beginning of the night, then rises very high in the sky and turns around at the other side in the end of the evening. This is a 360 degree panorama – the first arch was taken at 3:30 am, while the second – at 9:30 pm (arranged in reverse for composition purposes).
Unique foregrounds
From the acacia trees (which I must admit totally mesmerized me) and the huge termite hills, the Sacred mountain to Thumbs up rock and the local people – you will have plenty of unique and gorgeous foregrounds for your astrophotography sessions. Even my very first day at Samburu I spent screenshotting different locations I absolutely loved – and I couldn’t manage to get to every one of them during my 4-day visit, there were just too many!
Wildlife and the night sky
One of my photo goals before visiting Kenya and Samburu National Reserve was to try and capture any animal with the night sky. I was well aware this was near impossible – the animals move a lot and it’s much harder to spot them at night. However, I managed to capture this elephant at the watering hole right after blue hour (well after sunset) and then stayed to capture the night sky behind just 40 minutes later. This is called a blue-hour blend and it’s the easiest to capture with wildlife. If you want to get just a single night shot with an animal – I recommend chasing giraffes, as they can be a bit more stationery. Also, use a lens like 50/1.4 or 85/1.4 (or even faster) for such shots.
5. The Samburu People
I mentioned about visiting the village, but let me tell you a little bit more about it. Visiting a Samburu village feels like stepping into a world that still moves to its own ancient rhythm. The people here wear their stories—brightly beaded necklaces stacked high, intricate bracelets and anklets catching the light, and vividly patterned shukas draped over their shoulders. Every color, every bead arrangement has meaning, often tied to age, status, or milestones in life. Their homes, called manyattas, are hand-built from sticks, mud, and dung, forming small, circular family compounds that seem simple at first glance but are carefully designed for practicality in the harsh climate. Daily life revolves around their livestock—cattle, goats, and camels—which aren’t just a source of food and trade but also the center of social and cultural life.
The Samburu are incredibly welcoming, and the village visit is not just a performance for tourists—it’s a genuine sharing of culture. You’ll see how they milk their animals at dawn, how children help herd goats, and how elders gather to discuss important matters under the shade of an acacia tree. They might even invite you to join in traditional dances, with rhythmic singing and jumping that seem to pulse with the beat of the land. It’s polite—and appreciated—to bring a gift for the community, but rather than guessing, ask your guide beforehand what’s most useful at that moment. The experience is warm, humbling, and eye-opening, leaving you with more than just photographs—it leaves you with a connection.
6. The Samburu Special 5 – Safari
One of the first things I asked my local guide was: “Why are safaris called game drives??” and Wilson calmly explained that indeed – those are like a game, because you drive and you constantly search for wildlife. The Samburu Special 5 is a set of 5 unique animals that you can only spot here. Let’s see which they are:
1. Reticulated Giraffe
I will say one thing when it comes to game drives in Samburu National Reserve – it’s worth coming here just to see the gorgeous giraffes! I also asked a lot of the local girls what their favorite animals was and, well, ALL of them said “giraffe”. And you know what? It was my absolute favorite one too! Must be a girl thing, I guess, but the giraffes are so graceful and beautiful, it’s impossible not to fall in love with them immediately. The Samburu giraffes have a very specific pattern and I must say it’s much more beautiful than the one of ordinary giraffes. They have a striking coat pattern with rich brown patches separated by clean white lines. It’s the most common giraffe you’ll see in Samburu National Reserve and its surroundings, often browsing leaves from the tops of acacia trees. They move slowly and gracefully, and because of their height, they are easy to spot from a distance.
2. Grevy’s Zebra
The Grevy’s zebra is the largest and rarest of all zebra species. You’ll recognize it by its narrow, well-defined stripes, white belly, and large rounded ears. They usually move in small groups, and in Samburu, you’ll often see them grazing in open areas. If you spot a foal, you’ll notice its stripes are light brown and will darken as it grows.
3. Somali Ostrich
The Somali ostrich is easy to identify with its blue-gray neck and thighs. Males have black-and-white feathers, and during the breeding season, their neck and legs turn a brighter shade of blue. They are extremely fast runners, reaching up to 70 km/h, so don’t be surprised if they suddenly take off across the savanna.
4. Gerenuk
The gerenuk, also called the giraffe gazelle, has a long neck and a unique feeding habit—it often stands upright on its hind legs to reach leaves high in the bushes. They are slender, quiet antelopes that blend well into the thorny scrub, so you need a sharp eye to spot them.
5. Beisa Oryx
The Beisa oryx is a desert-adapted antelope with long, straight horns and distinct black-and-white facial markings. Its light sandy coat helps it blend into the dry landscape. It can survive long periods without water, getting most of its moisture from the plants it eats.
Other wildlife
Of course, Samburu is full of other wildlife you can encounter, especially in Samburu National Reserve:
Samburu, Kenya Packing List
Clothing
- Light, breathable shirts (long-sleeved for sun and insect protection) – ideally linen ones
- Comfortable trousers or safari pants
- Shorts for hotter days
- A light jacket or fleece for cool early mornings and nights
- A rain jacket (especially during rainy season)
- Wide-brimmed hat or cap
- Swimsuit – Saruni Samburu has two pools, while Samburu Basecamp has a jacuzzi at the starbeds
- Warm layers for night shoots (temperatures drop sharply after midnight)
Footwear
- Comfortable walking shoes or hiking boots
- Sandals or flip-flops for the lodge
Health & Safety
- Malaria prevention tablets – very important, consult with your doctor before your visit
- Insect repellent with high DEET content – this is crucial for mosquitoes (even though I didn’t see any, it’s still a good idea)
- Sunscreen (SPF 50+)
- After-sun lotion or aloe vera gel
- Personal medication & basic first aid kit
- Lip balm with SPF (the sun during the day and the dry air at night can chap lips)
Day Safari Gear
- Camera with zoom lens (100–400mm or similar) for wildlife
- Binoculars for spotting animals
- Sunglasses with UV protection
- Small daypack for excursions
Astrophotography Gear
- DSLR or mirrorless camera with full manual control
- Wide-angle lens (f/2.8 or faster) for Milky Way shots, 50/1.4 or 85/1.4 for wildlife astro shots
- Sturdy tripod (travel-friendly but stable in wind)
- Remote shutter release or intervalometer
- Plenty of memory cards
- Headlamp with red light mode (to protect night vision)
- Star tracker (optional, for more detail in the night sky)
- Apps for star mapping (PhotoPills, SkySafari, Stellarium)
Documents & Money
- Passport (valid for at least 6 months)
- Visa (if required for your nationality) – this is very important, please remember to apply for ETA (Electronic Travel Authorization) a few days before your visit
- Local currency (Kenyan shillings) or US dollars
Optional but Useful
- Light scarf or buff (for dust)
- Travel adapter (Kenya uses UK-style plugs)
Samburu Basecamp and Samburu National Reserve were truly the experience of a lifetime for me – as I’m sure they would be for you as well. These dark starry skies, the amazingly friendly people, the experiences, the amenities of the camp and the wildlife – everything was really, really worth it. You will experience Kenya as you should – without the crowds and while connecting with the locals’ customs, legends and energy.
* Please note: I was a guest at Samburu Basecamp. However, all opinions are my own.
